A steep climb up Rtanj mountain through the clouds followed by a long walk down to Sokobanja.
As I ate my fried eggs and a sort of ricotta type cheese for breakfast I peered up at low cloud hiding higher ground from my sight. Not promising for any scenic views today. Despite the poor outlook for visibility and fortified by what I took to be Rtanj tea with my breakfast I started my day's walk in good cheer. After leaving the village the climb up to the summit of Rtanj mountain fell into three parts: a steep section through small trees and bushes to the top of a reef of limestone; a flattish section, then a second steep section through open grassland to the summit. As I climbed the flora changed from cowslips to flowers like miniature hyacinths that formed pools of blue on the higher slopes, to what looked like purple anenomies near the top. As I climbed above 1000 metres I began to look down from above on the clouds covering lower ground, a sight I always find impressive reminding me of my first time in an aeroplane. Near the top the wind became stronger, cold and gusting, with a good gale blowing at the summit. The ruins of St George's chapel at the top where I sheltered were only visible when I actually reached them. Various oddments had been left in a steel box by previous visitors. Despite it being somewhat misty I could see many distant mountains and valleys filled with cloud.
Descending, the path on my Garmin GPS map no longer seemed to exist so I just headed down the grassy slope trying to avoid the flowers, creating an oregano sort of herby smell as I crushed the vegetation with my boots. A pair of birds flew off startled by my approach. There probably was a better (less ecologically damaging) path if I had retraced my steps a bit further down, as it was I joined up with a tractor path as I reached the bottom of the steepest section.
This led me to a good, waymarked track which I followed to the village of Muzinac. Then it was by road to Sarbanovac and finally by gravel and tarmac roads to Sokobanja. A driver who stopped said there was a path to Sokobanja with better views along the top of the ridge. (Update: probably the one on the gpx trail subsequently published by the Mountaineering Association of Serbia)
By the time I approached the town it was raining. Not bothering with my waterproof over-trousers (a mistake) I hurried to Nataly's B&B for a warm shower, and later (after trying on the white fluffy bathrobe) a dinner of pork, chips and Sopska salad, washed down with the local beer.
30.2 kilometres walked today with a total ascent of 1233 metres. A gpx file of my route can be found on wikiloc.com or can be downloaded from ViewRanger short code johnpon0030.
As I ate my fried eggs and a sort of ricotta type cheese for breakfast I peered up at low cloud hiding higher ground from my sight. Not promising for any scenic views today. Despite the poor outlook for visibility and fortified by what I took to be Rtanj tea with my breakfast I started my day's walk in good cheer. After leaving the village the climb up to the summit of Rtanj mountain fell into three parts: a steep section through small trees and bushes to the top of a reef of limestone; a flattish section, then a second steep section through open grassland to the summit. As I climbed the flora changed from cowslips to flowers like miniature hyacinths that formed pools of blue on the higher slopes, to what looked like purple anenomies near the top. As I climbed above 1000 metres I began to look down from above on the clouds covering lower ground, a sight I always find impressive reminding me of my first time in an aeroplane. Near the top the wind became stronger, cold and gusting, with a good gale blowing at the summit. The ruins of St George's chapel at the top where I sheltered were only visible when I actually reached them. Various oddments had been left in a steel box by previous visitors. Despite it being somewhat misty I could see many distant mountains and valleys filled with cloud.
Descending, the path on my Garmin GPS map no longer seemed to exist so I just headed down the grassy slope trying to avoid the flowers, creating an oregano sort of herby smell as I crushed the vegetation with my boots. A pair of birds flew off startled by my approach. There probably was a better (less ecologically damaging) path if I had retraced my steps a bit further down, as it was I joined up with a tractor path as I reached the bottom of the steepest section.
This led me to a good, waymarked track which I followed to the village of Muzinac. Then it was by road to Sarbanovac and finally by gravel and tarmac roads to Sokobanja. A driver who stopped said there was a path to Sokobanja with better views along the top of the ridge. (Update: probably the one on the gpx trail subsequently published by the Mountaineering Association of Serbia)
By the time I approached the town it was raining. Not bothering with my waterproof over-trousers (a mistake) I hurried to Nataly's B&B for a warm shower, and later (after trying on the white fluffy bathrobe) a dinner of pork, chips and Sopska salad, washed down with the local beer.
30.2 kilometres walked today with a total ascent of 1233 metres. A gpx file of my route can be found on wikiloc.com or can be downloaded from ViewRanger short code johnpon0030.
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| Anenomies near the summit of Rtnaj |
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| View from Rtanj summit |
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| Track to Sokobanja, looking back at Rtanj |
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