Today I headed south into the Homolje mountains as part of a big "U" shape in the route that will bring me back to the Danube some 60 km downstream.
Most of today involved climbing up, along and down mountains in the snow, often among leafless trees, but first I followed the road to the fortress of Golubac. The road was right on the edge of the Danube below a steep slope, with sections of overhanging rock. Pretty scenic although it would have benefited from a pedestrian walkway.
The fortress itself was closed for restoration but there was an exhibition, the remains of an ancient hammam (an arabic bathhouse) and a café. The helpful barista told me of the 360 degree view on the top of the first mountain I would be climbing, and recommended the locally made cookies (they were nice and soft).
This first steep climb up the side of the Danube valley provided several views of the river and the fortress from progressively higher levels. I took a detour to the summit to see the promised panorama (good but the aerial there got in the way a bit). Continuing easterly along a ridge I passed various buildings, mostly in a state of advanced decay but one in better condition that was inhabited, footprints in the snow showing somebody was living there. These were the only footprints I saw on my walk today although there were plenty of animal tracks. There was a section where I had marked a route out onto a ridge based on a trail on Wikiloc.com. However the hoped for views were obscured by snow starting to fall and general mistiness, so after some lunch I returned to the main route and continued on my way to the Tumane monastery through progressively deeper snow. One of the problems with snow is that you cannot see what is beneath it, so I stumbled several times on hidden branches and ruts, and once put my foot into a deep puddle wetting my socks. At one point I fell into a deep snow drift and struggled to get out.
As I approached my final summit, Golo Brdo, a 4 wheel drive came along the track "beeping" his horn at me, I am not sure why, he did not stop. While enjoying the achievement of reaching this final high point, I noticed the water in my bottle was starting to freeze, making me wonder if it would freeze completely and split my water bottle. Time to loose height and find somewhere to sleep tonight.
After dropping down steeply into the valley following car tracks, I hit the road which took me to the Tumane monastery. On reaching the monastery I was called over to a building, flooded with warm light in the gathering dusk. I was offered some of the local plum brandy by a friendly bunch, which certainly provided inner warmth while the stove in the room toasted my outside. One of the men, called Dragon (?) showed me the church and its relics, an icon brought from Russia by monks fleeing communism, and the remains of two saints. The monastery was founded back in the 13th century but church had been rebuilt many times and the frescos repainted. They showed scenes from the bible and paintings of saints, all looking solemn.
They kindly gave me dinner, vegetable stew, pickled vegetables and bread; no meat as it is Lent and asked only for a donation. The monastery guest house was full but they let me pitch my tent in the monastery compound. I was immensely grateful to these kind folk for making me welcome by their stove on such a wintery night.
A 24.7 kilometre day with over 900 metres of ascent. A gpx file of my route can be found on Wikiloc.com, and WanderMap.net. The route can also be downloaded from Viewranger.com as johnpon0027.
Most of today involved climbing up, along and down mountains in the snow, often among leafless trees, but first I followed the road to the fortress of Golubac. The road was right on the edge of the Danube below a steep slope, with sections of overhanging rock. Pretty scenic although it would have benefited from a pedestrian walkway.
The fortress itself was closed for restoration but there was an exhibition, the remains of an ancient hammam (an arabic bathhouse) and a café. The helpful barista told me of the 360 degree view on the top of the first mountain I would be climbing, and recommended the locally made cookies (they were nice and soft).
This first steep climb up the side of the Danube valley provided several views of the river and the fortress from progressively higher levels. I took a detour to the summit to see the promised panorama (good but the aerial there got in the way a bit). Continuing easterly along a ridge I passed various buildings, mostly in a state of advanced decay but one in better condition that was inhabited, footprints in the snow showing somebody was living there. These were the only footprints I saw on my walk today although there were plenty of animal tracks. There was a section where I had marked a route out onto a ridge based on a trail on Wikiloc.com. However the hoped for views were obscured by snow starting to fall and general mistiness, so after some lunch I returned to the main route and continued on my way to the Tumane monastery through progressively deeper snow. One of the problems with snow is that you cannot see what is beneath it, so I stumbled several times on hidden branches and ruts, and once put my foot into a deep puddle wetting my socks. At one point I fell into a deep snow drift and struggled to get out.
As I approached my final summit, Golo Brdo, a 4 wheel drive came along the track "beeping" his horn at me, I am not sure why, he did not stop. While enjoying the achievement of reaching this final high point, I noticed the water in my bottle was starting to freeze, making me wonder if it would freeze completely and split my water bottle. Time to loose height and find somewhere to sleep tonight.
After dropping down steeply into the valley following car tracks, I hit the road which took me to the Tumane monastery. On reaching the monastery I was called over to a building, flooded with warm light in the gathering dusk. I was offered some of the local plum brandy by a friendly bunch, which certainly provided inner warmth while the stove in the room toasted my outside. One of the men, called Dragon (?) showed me the church and its relics, an icon brought from Russia by monks fleeing communism, and the remains of two saints. The monastery was founded back in the 13th century but church had been rebuilt many times and the frescos repainted. They showed scenes from the bible and paintings of saints, all looking solemn.
They kindly gave me dinner, vegetable stew, pickled vegetables and bread; no meat as it is Lent and asked only for a donation. The monastery guest house was full but they let me pitch my tent in the monastery compound. I was immensely grateful to these kind folk for making me welcome by their stove on such a wintery night.
A 24.7 kilometre day with over 900 metres of ascent. A gpx file of my route can be found on Wikiloc.com, and WanderMap.net. The route can also be downloaded from Viewranger.com as johnpon0027.
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| Fortress of Golubac on banks of the Danube |
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| Church at Tumane Monastery, Angel Gabriel above the door |
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