Thursday, 29 March 2018

Žagubica to Kupinova Glava on E4 Day 32

A sunny walk across flat farmland in the morning and a long climb up the mountain of Kupinova Glava in the afternoon in an area of friendly people.
My rest day yesterday passed all too quickly but left me in high spirits. Everything except my boots were dry and they were merely damp. I left town following tarmac roads mainly, across the large flat valley that the town of Žagubica lies at the edge of. I passed the Tryska Crkva monastery church, locked but clearly old. As I walked through the villages of Milatovac and Seliste the land became more hilly. The latter had another National Monument - I was unclear what it was.
People were friendly, smiling when I said Dober Dan (good day) to them, in one case I almost had a conversation. I think he thought it would be easier to take a taxi to Majdanpek, the next town I am going to. It is a very rural farming area with chickens running on the road and the typical hayricks of the area where the hay is stacked around a central pole. People were out in the sun trimming hedges, pruning and pollarding. The women were soberly dressed wearing thick black stockings,  grey or black skirts, jumper, headscarves, often a "gilet" and sometimes an apron, all in sombre colours. 
After Seliste the trail climbed steadily and the snow, absent now on the valley floor began to appear in patches. Above 700 metres it was patches of grass rather than patches of snow and above 800 metres it was just snow except in exposed spots were the wind had blown it off into snow drifts across my path. Soon my boots and socks were soaking wet again after pushing through deep but very wet snow snow drifts as wells as stepping into puddles hidden beneath the snow.
Below about 700 metres there were plenty of hill farms and pasture, higher up it was more tree covered. On my way up I was asked by a farmer and his wife if I would like a coffee. It sounded attractive so I joined them in their little hillside house, warmed by a wood burning range. He made Turkish style coffee while his wife was preparing what looked like nettle soup. As we had no common language conversation was difficult however he showed me photos on his phone of his animals (lambs, sheep, hens,  dogs, cats etc.), his wife and mother, also a huge wild boar he had shot. Despite me almost knocking down his porch with my rucksack he kindly gave me a bottle of lemonade to take. Much appreciated as it was thirsty work climbing in the sun. I left him a postcard of my home town. Probably not a fair exchange!
There was a superb view from Kupinova Glava's summit of snow covered mountains and what looked like the open cast mine of Majdanpek, my stop for tomorrow. Now I am camped a bit further along the ridge in a somewhat exposed spot but on a rare patch of grass free of snow. Just a bit worried as the wind is blowing up. When I attended a hill walking course at the Plas y Brenin centre in Snowdonia the instructor was not too impressed with my lightweight tent (a Tera Nova Laser Competition) and it's ability in the wind.....

26.4 kilometres walked today with an 860 metre ascent. A gpx file of my route can be found on Wikiloc.com, and WanderMap.net. The route can also be downloaded from Viewranger.com as johnpon0027.

Tryska Crkva monastery church

Summit of Kupinova Glava

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